Following the Chernivtsi-Verkhovyna highway, stop near the village of Verkhniy Yaseniv, in Tsarina. Park your car and cross the stone path. After walking about a hundred meters to the left, you'll come across a modular house nestled in the mountains—a unique bookstore-café and art space called "Kotsiubynskyi." The Black Cheremosh River roars nearby, the same location where the main characters Ivan and Marichka spent their time in Mykhailo Kotsiubynskyi's novel Shadows of Forgotten Ancestors.
When you enter the house, you'll be welcomed by a cozy atmosphere filled with books and the aroma of freshly brewed coffee. If you're lucky, you might even catch a writer's event or a music night, which are often hosted here.
"Kotsiubinskyi" space. Photo from the archive of the heroine
"Kotsiubinskyi" space. Photo from the archive of the heroine
The bridge over the Black Cheremosh River. Photo: FB
When the city's iron grip loosens
Anna moved to Verkhovyna from Kyiv, where she had worked as a pediatrician for ten years. She ran her own medical practice, and after the start of war in Ukraine's Donbas in 2014, became a certified NATO instructor in tactical medicine, teaching Ukrainian servicemen as part of volunteer teams.
With the outbreak of the full-scale war, Anna discovered a new talent—writing. Her works focus on themes of war and Ukraine and have been translated and presented in various countries. Her passion for Ukraine's victory and her love for her husband Vasyl, who is currently serving in the Armed Forces of Ukraine, fuel her creative drive.
It was from their shared dream that the "Kotsiubynskyi" space was born.
Anna Pavlichenko and Vasyl Tomyshynets. Photo: FB
"It so happened that my husband and I dreamed of moving to Prykarpattia when we got married," Anna recalls. Vasyl suggested buying a plot of land, which sped up their plans to relocate.
Their love for the Verkhovyna region blossomed after visiting with their daughter. They went on excursions led by a local resident, visiting sites like the Ivan Franko Museum, places frequented by Ukrainian literary figures, and Mount Pysanyi Kamin (translated as Painted Stone — ed.), a natural monument near the village of Verkhniy Yaseniv. These experiences left a lasting impression.
For a long time, the couple searched for a house they loved, but none felt right.
"My vision was to create a retreat space, a place for veterans and their families to heal through art and recover from the effects of war. We were looking for somewhere quiet, away from the noise and main roads," Anna explains.
Eventually, the idea of building their own house on the land they had purchased emerged. This allowed them to design everything exactly as they envisioned. In addition to being a retreat space, Anna decided to make it a bookstore-café. "That format came to mind immediately. At the time, there was no place like it in the Carpathians. And when I presented my books, I enjoyed the idea of offering a cultural event in a relaxed way—where someone could simply enjoy coffee and connect with literature. It's about fully integrating culture into our lives," Anna shares.
The house-building process. Photo: Facebook
Thus began the meticulous work of creating the space. During the process, Anna decided to apply for a grant from Diia.Business, a Ukrainian government platform that provides support and resources for entrepreneurs. She received a small budget, which she describes as a "good push" to get started.
"When people believe in you and provide funding, it becomes a moment where you can't back down," she says.
Anna hired a construction company to build a modular house based on her vision. She personally selected the colors, textures, and overall interior design to create a welcoming and comfortable space.
The space was named in honor of Mykhailo Kotsiubynskyi, whose stories about the region inspired Anna. The "Kotsiubynskyi" bookstore and café is located in Verkhovyna, near the locations where the events of the novel and film Shadows of Forgotten Ancestors took place.
For Anna, the biggest challenge was preparing the space alone, as her husband, a soldier in the Ukrainian Armed Forces, couldn't take leave. She had to manage all the tasks herself.
The construction, initially planned to be completed in a month, faced delays due to a lack of funds. Despite these challenges, Anna had already committed to hosting the 10th All-Ukrainian Literary Festival "Writer's Bonfire over Cheremosh" on the space's opening day.
"We barely finished in time, working through the last night. There wasn't enough money to hire help, so I ended up assembling the furniture from JYSK myself at the last moment. The children from our theater studio even pitched in. Then, our barista told me the coffee machine wasn't working, and nothing could be served. It was incredibly stressful," Anna recalls.
Thankfully, the coffee machine was functioning, and no one went without drinks.
Drinks in the establishment. Photo from the archive of the heroine
D-Day
"When I opened the door for everyone, to be honest, I was in such a state that I hardly understood what was happening," Anna recalls. "I usually don't prepare for speeches because it's important to me that they come from the heart, not from a script. When I spoke that day, I cried a little. I talked about the children who helped me and the challenges we faced."
That day, the head of the National Union of Writers of Ukraine (NUWU), regional union leaders, writers, and literary critics attended the event. It marked the beginning of future artistic gatherings at the "Kotsiubynskyi" space.
Guests of the bookstore. Photo from the archive of the heroine
A lot of events have taken place so far at the "Kotsiubynskyi" space. The venue is available for free to anyone looking to organize an event; you just need to contact the institution through their page or call the number listed.
"Kotsiubynskyi" even offers its own art manager to assist organizers in ensuring a high-quality event. The manager will help confirm dates, assist with logistics, invite guests, and create a comfortable environment.
"We are always open and would be delighted to see our space filled with creative events. This is another one of our missions—to allow people to express themselves and showcase their talents rather than hide them away. There are many creative individuals in this area," Anna shares.
In less than a month, two all-Ukrainian events have already taken place at the space. The second event was an All-Ukrainian plein-air symposium dedicated to the 160th anniversary of Mykhailo Kotsiubynskyi's birth, the 100th anniversary of the director Serhii Parajanov, and the 60th anniversary of the film Shadows of Forgotten Ancestors. Anna proudly notes that these significant anniversaries brought together participants from all over Ukraine, including Kotsiubynskyi's granddaughter.
Now, the space attracts tourists, local artists, and visitors from across the country. Among them are foreign tourists who purchase English-language books about the Russian-Ukrainian war, which are carefully displayed on the shelves of the bookstore and café, helping to share Ukrainian stories abroad.
The space also features a selection of Ukrainian-language books on various topics, many of which focus on the Verkhovyna Region and its local traditions. Visitors can either purchase these books or read them for free on-site.
Local teenagers visit the space every week for classes with the "Soniachna Khata" theater group. Here, they perform various works, including excerpts from Kotsiubynskyi's novels and pieces written by Anna herself.
The founder also plans to create an interactive museum dedicated to Kotsiubynskyi. Currently, the bookstore-café features several of his photographs, but she envisions offering visitors a variety of experiences, such as listening to his works through headphones in a quiet setting or attending screenings of films based on his writings.
A retreat for military personnel and their families
Anna's primary goal was to create a space for military personnel and their families to relax. By selling books and coffee, she raises funds to establish a free retreat program.
The first event is scheduled for October 11-13 and will focus on recovery through art. An artist-psychologist will lead the program, which will include therapeutic writing, theatrical activities, drum lessons, and more. Anna hopes that by the end of the retreat, each participant will not only explore various forms of art but also create their own artistic product, such as a collection of works or a painting.
The founder is already equipping the space with inclusive solutions, including a ramp to accommodate individuals with disabilities. Additionally, educational literature—manuals on communication during wartime—has been provided to the space by the volunteer project "How are you, brother?".
The team plans to invite local veterans and their families to the first retreat and will announce it on social media.
Cases for auction. Photo: archive of the heroine
Anna dreams of organizing these retreats on a permanent basis, but she needs funding to make it happen. This month, she and a fellow artist will launch an auction of paintings. A similar auction is already taking place at the "Kotsiubynskyi" space, where the team is raffling off painted tubes to raise funds for military personnel.
You can support this initiative by donating to the foundation of Anna's husband, Vasyl, through the NGO "Tree of Life — Revival."
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