Ukrainian fashion designers: how the fashion industry evolved in Ukraine, and how to support it during war?

How the Ukrainian fashion industry has grown

Ukrainian fashion, as we know it, has soared since the 1990s, when Ukraine regained its independence and artists were given freedom of expression after the rigid constraints imposed by the Soviet empire. With a sense of self-determination and the support of consumers, Ukraine's runway and street-style fashion evolved into an established industry over the years.

The Ukrainian Fashion Week (UFW) helped the businesses develop, supporting up-and-coming Ukrainian fashion designers in finding their audience and clientele. The event, founded in 1997 by the then-editor-in-chief of L'Officiel Ukraine, Iryna Danilevska, and designer Serhii Byzov, became Eastern Europe's first prêt-à-porter fashion week. Since then, it has been held twice yearly, usually presenting over 40 designer collections

Historical events in modern Ukraine, such as protests of the Orange Revolution and the Revolution of Dignity and Russian invasions of 2014 and 2022, also strengthened the country's national identity and pushed the development of style and fashion. Driven by political and social change, Ukrainian fashion designers keep returning to their roots, taking inspiration from the rich culture of traditional clothing. They use famous Ukrainian embroidery called «vyshyvanka,» classic cuts of shirts and dresses, and the construction of hats. 

Many brands chose to use centuries-old folklore as part of their identity. Others reinterpret traditions to pay homage to Ukrainian culture and create something new. Whether clothing is folk-spired or ultra-modern, Ukrainians take pride in wearing brands made in Ukraine, which led to projects promoting local designers.

Designers building their fashion houses and Ukrainians with a rising interest in style have attracted the attention of international fashion, bringing well-known magazines to Ukraine. Vogue UA has been the most thriving, gaining recognition for its high-quality editorial content and building the presence of Ukrainian designers in the global fashion market. 

Who are the top designers from Ukraine?

The collective backing of the industry, journalists, and clients made many clothing brands from Ukraine famous internationally. Ukrainian fashion designers enjoyed the global attention long before the full-scale war, showing their collections at fashion weeks in London, Paris, and New York. Many artists were nominated for the LVMH Prize, a prestigious award and €300,000 grant supporting young designers. Their diverse pieces  — luxurious and elegant, vibrant and provocative, folk-inspired and comfortable, laid-back and sustainable — are favored by fashionistas, political figures, and celebrities alike. 

Vita Kin and her namesake brand have successfully promoted Ukrainian culture worldwide. Inspired by traditional clothing, they offer a range of dresses and shirts made with intricate embroidery and perforation techniques, often seen on famous actor Demi Moore, burlesque performer Dita Von Teese, and others. In 2022, Vita Kin was invited to the renowned brand Gucci to collaborate on a capsule collection of embroidered dresses, where the designer interpreted the ancient ornaments from the Carpathian mountain region.

FROLOV is at the opposite end of the fashion spectrum, known for its sensual and provoking pieces created for self-expression and empowerment. Founded by Ivan Frolov in 2015, the clothing brand's style is characterized by the use of silk, mesh, corset fit, and crystal embroidery. Frolov was the first Ukrainian designer to collaborate with Swarovski on his sparkling ensembles, one of which was a bubblegum corset dress custom-made for Beyonce for her Dubai show. FROLOV has also created couture pieces for Jennifer Lopez, Dua Lipa, and other celebrities. 

The ultimate «quiet luxury» brand from Ukraine, Bevza, is also beloved by A-listers like Dakota Johnson and Bella Hadid. Founded in Kyiv in 2006 by Svitlana Bevza, the label has been an official New York Fashion Week resident for seven years. The designer incorporates clean forms, sharp tailoring, and a resigned color palette into her pieces and uses leftover or recycled materials. She also takes inspiration from her country's cultural heritage. The subtle designs of her knitwear are produced with artisanal Ukrainian techniques, and her latest collection of minimal jewelry is made in the shapes of wheat and marigolds, which are symbolic of Ukraine.

Another standout and minimalist Ukrainian brand is Bettter US or Bettter Upcycling Systems, founded by former Vogue UA fashion director and stylist Julia Pelipas. Heavily inspired by menswear tailoring, the clothes are exclusively made from deadstock fabrics to mitigate the issue of waste, with fashion being the second-most polluting industry. Though it was launched relatively recently, it has become covetable among clients, who sold out the brand's first collection, and celebrities, such as actor Kristen Steward, who recently wore the Bettter ensemble to the movie premiere.

A popular Ukrainian label that also prioritizes sustainability is KSENIASCHNAIDER. This relaxed and fun brand is renowned for its upcycled denim and the use of patchwork and knitting to create unique pieces. The designer Ksenia Schnaider rose to fame after releasing Demi-denims in 2016, which became popular on Instagram and among celebrities. Heide Klum, Lady Gaga, Celine Dion, Monica Belucci, Dua Lipa, and more wore the brand's upcycled jeans, denim jackets, and coats.

Another celebrated Ukrainian designer, Anna October, created the label carrying her name over a decade ago with sustainable values in mind. October uses deadstock and ethically sourced material to construct feminine and playful designs. Her artisan brand is known for its bold colors and quality tailoring, and her sensual and timeless pieces are fashion insiders' favorites. Her collections have been presented at international fashion weeks and stocked by prestigious retailers.

How war changed Ukrainian fashion

Russia's full-scale war had a prominent impact on Ukrainian fashion, bringing tough challenges for designers and, at the same time, making them stronger and more resilient. At the beginning of the invasion, Ukrainian brands had to close their production and showrooms and evacuate, leaving behind the stocks of fabric and ready garments. While the war brought destruction and fear to their businesses, designers chose to be resilient and reformatted their activities. 

Many started to volunteer for the war effort. GUZEMA FINE JEWELLERY began its foundation to raise funding and support soldiers and medics on the front line. Clothing and shoe brands, like Kachorovska, Andre Tan, and FROLOV, decided to produce boots, uniforms, underwear, and tactical vests for the armed forces instead of creating collections. LITKOVSKA launched its €150 assistance certificates, asking clients to buy them in exchange for future discounts and using the proceeds to help the army.

The sustainable brand Bettter US team created a platform to help Ukrainian creatives, such as designers, artists, illustrators, videographers, photographers, and others, find jobs and shelters. Anyone could hire Ukrainian specialists or donate money on the platform. The founder, Julie Pelipas, has used her social media to inform her audience and raise awareness of Russian war crimes and the support Ukrainians need.

Pelipas isn't the only brand owner who uses her voice to discuss the war and attract donations for Ukraine. Many designers realize that they can use fashion for cultural diplomacy and activism. Litkovska took a moment to make a statement about Mariupol and Ukrainian prisoners of war at the end of her show at Kornit Fashion Week London 2022. She came out with the banner saying, «Help Mariupol, Azovstal. Now.» 

In 2022, the Ukrainian Fashion Week Committee decided to make their event international by starting the Support Ukrainian Fashion initiative. They asked their peers to support Ukrainian designers. Nine fashion weeks agreed to host 43 designers both online and offline. The brands used the opportunities to garner support for their country. When Ivan Frolov, Julie Pascal, and Ksenia Schaider presented their collections at London Fashion Week, three designers came out with the Ukrainian flag with the logo of UNITED24, Ukraine's official fundraising platform, collecting donations for the country.  

How to support Ukrainian fashion brands

Ukrainian designers adapted to the war and continued working amid rocket strikes, blackouts, and air raid sirens to create inspiring fashion while donating a portion of proceeds to a good cause. Still, they face many issues, like economic instability, lack of specialists, import and export disruptions, and more, and need more international support than ever. Besides buying directly from the brands we mentioned here, you have more ways to discover other Ukrainian labels and become the prideful owners of their garments.  

The first platform you can use Vsi.Svoi, which loosely translates to «all ours,» has supported local businesses since 2015. It started as a marketplace for clothes, shoes, and accessories, but now you can also find home decor, ceramics, and food products there. The project has showrooms in Kyiv, which presents over 250 producers of clothes and shoes and over 150 interior design brands. The marketplace delivers internationally.

The Spend With Ukraine project is another way to explore and support the Ukrainian industry. The website, founded by the non-profit Ukrainian Bridge, connects you to over 220 brands, from fashion to electronics. The founders, Yaroslav Azhniuk and Andrii Klen, have said they created their project «to support the Ukrainian economy by promoting world-class Ukrainian products and services worldwide and helping them find customers.»

A similar initiative that often goes offline with its Ukrainian Creators Fairs is the US-based platform iamuare.world. According to the website, you can find more than 120 businesses and «discover more about the contemporary creative industry of Ukraine, explore a unique architectural vision, relax to the music and flow of creativity.» If you live in the US, you can visit their pop-ups and fairs, which they often host in Los Angeles and New York.

Bonus! If you are looking for creators for your fashion business, you can find specialists at Bettter Given Name Community, founded by Julie Pelipas. The platform promotes top local talents in the Ukrainian creative industry. In an interview with the Guardian, Pelipas said, «This will make it easy to help these kids on all levels. If they feel they have a job, they have a chance for their future.»