Why Ukrainian Fashion Week returned in 2024 amid the war
Kyiv has recently hosted the country's leading and long-awaited fashion event, Ukrainian Fashion Week 2024. From September 1 to 4, more than 50 Ukrainian labels, including internationally successful Litkovska, Ruslan Baginski, Frolov, and Ksenia Schnaider, presented their collections at the IRL events in the Mystestskyi Arsenal Art Center and other locations in the Ukrainian capital.
Ukraine fashion industry during war: Ukrainian Fashion Week returned to Kyiv for the first time since 2022. Photo: BoF
While the occasion was met with the support and enthusiasm of the local community, many had unavoidable questions. What about possible Russian air strikes on the Ukrainian capital? Is fashion that important amid the ongoing war? Why did Ukrainian Fashion Week come back now? Rubryka explains some reasons behind the decision.
Showing the resilience
Ukraine fashion industry during war: Ukrainian war veterans modeled for Andreas Moskin during the third day of the Ukrainian Fashion Week 2024. Photo: Andriy Sokolov
Russia's full-scale war shook Ukrainian fashion in 2022, entirely changing the industry and its priorities. Ukrainian designers had to shut down their brands, with many reformatting their production to support the Ukrainian army with specially produced uniforms and boots or direct donations to fundraisers.
For over two years, Ukrainian fashion brands—many displaced by war—stood strong despite suffering huge losses in income, production facilities, logistics, and people. So Ukrainian Fashion Week, the first one held in Kyiv since the Russian invasion, is about showing the resilience of these talented artists and the hope of Ukraine's fashion industry during the war.
Ksenia Schnaider, a successful Ukrainian designer who presented her spring collection in Kyiv this year, stated, "It's more than just a fashion event. It's a statement of resilience and creativity under the most trying circumstances. The local fashion community has shown incredible strength and solidarity in making this happen. Despite the difficulties, everyone is united in their determination to showcase our culture, our art, and our unwavering spirit to the world."
Supporting local designers and economy
Ukraine fashion industry during war: Presentation of the Ukrainian designer Julia Paskal at the Ukrainian Fashion Week (UFW) on September 3, 2024. Photo: UFW
Iryna Danylevska, the founder of Ukrainian Fashion Week, stated in many interviews leading up to the event that despite the uncertainty and initial ideas about hosting the fashion week after the war was over, her organization went on and supported Ukrainian designers as a way to boost the domestic fashion market.
"First and foremost, we are doing it for Ukrainian designers and the Ukrainian fashion industry," said Danylevska. "We expect Ukrainian Fashion Week will have a lot of attention from media and social media, and it's going to be a source of inspiration for the whole nation."
According to Danylevska, Ukrainian Fashion Week 2024 — with presentations and runways organized only at venues with bomb shelters — is also a way to "uncover new talents that have emerged during these challenging times." Co-founder of the Ukrainian brand Gunia Project Maria Gavryliuk agrees, stating that the event is "a significant platform to showcase their work, engage with both local and international buyers, and assert their presence in the fashion industry."
Promoting Ukrainian brands globally
Ukraine fashion industry during war: A look from Ruslan Baginskiy's collection presented at Ukrainian Fashion Week 2024. Photo: Elle
The international fashion community's attention has always played a crucial role in growing Ukrainian companies, and now, amid the war, it has another layer of meaning. While Ukrainians support local designers, they cannot fully sustain their businesses, so raising the global visibility of Ukrainian fashion labels can help attract more purchases and partnerships to keep them afloat.
Tetiana Chumak, the founder of TG Botanical, the Ukrainian womenswear company, agrees with skeptics that now might not be the right time to host the fashion week, but it keeps Ukrainian brands and Ukraine "visible on the global stage." She told WWD, "Of course, it's not time for parties, but it's time for shows and presentations and supporting our industry in Ukraine as best as we can."
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