What is the problem?
The full-scale invasion by Russia has forced us to radically rethink our values, proving them not only to others but also to ourselves. It has helped us realize that Ukraine is much more than a few well-known resorts or Hoverla. For some, this realization came from a desire to explore the country; for others, from the inability to travel abroad; and for many, from a simple wish to relax at home.
By stealing Ukrainian territories, Russia has taken away part of this opportunity. Many incredible places are now occupied or destroyed, including Askania-Nova, the pink lake Syvash in the Kherson region, the Crimean Nature Reserve, and others.
Askania-Nova: what is happening in the biosphere reserve, which has been occupied since the first days of the war?
Ukrainians will reclaim these territories. Meanwhile, Ukraine remains vast and full of wonders worth exploring.
Nika during a hike to the Matahiv ridge. Photos from the heroine's personal archive
What is the solution?
The desire to explore inspired the creation of the project "Off the Trail," where Nika introduces her audience to Ukraine, focusing on lesser-known, non-touristy places worth discovering.
"I wanted the title to feel Ukrainian because the project is about exploring our country," Nika explains. "There are funny moments when you and a group venture into truly off-the-beaten-path locations."
Nika's journey began with trips to Chornobyl. As part of a group of so-called stalkers, she spent weeks in the Exclusion Zone, exploring its hidden corners. The first time she strapped on a massive backpack, she realized her love for traveling and discovering unknown places. This passion grew into a desire to showcase the incredible diversity of Ukraine. From valleys blooming with Ivan tea to crystal-filled caves and vast mountain ranges, Ukraine offers countless hidden treasures waiting to be explored.
"For example, people from the Ternopil region know about their caves. But those living in Kyiv or further away might have no idea such places exist. Exploring these sites is like discovering a new world. The places in Ukraine are just as impressive as many destinations in Europe," Nika says.
Through her social media platforms and YouTube vlog, Nika shares the behind-the-scenes moments of her hikes, her impressions, and her trekking adventures worldwide. One of her most recent journeys was a 412-kilometer trek across Turkey.
How does it work?
Experience will teach you the right way
Kukul mountain meadow. Photo from the heroine's personal archive
Nika's first hiking experience took her to the Kukul mountain range, a popular tourist spot with kolyba huts, where crocuses bloom in winter. At that time, she was still a beginner, trekking with a 60-liter backpack and wearing Martins, which ended up rubbing her feet. Despite the discomfort, she now believes that you don't need to know everything before trying something new and exciting—experience will teach you the right way.
This experience led her to realize that she wanted to embrace "lightness" in her travels, which meant abandoning the heavy backpack. She focused on reducing the weight of essential gear like the tent, sleeping bag, mat, and even shoes, so she could cover longer distances more comfortably and efficiently.
"There's a stereotype that a small backpack means you've sacrificed something important. But that's not true. I try to combine everything I need and make it as comfortable as possible," says Nika.
It was with this approach—carrying a small backpack—that she embarked on a 15-day expedition along the East Carpathian Tourist Route. While this route is well-known among experienced hikers, it can be quite challenging for less seasoned travelers due to the significant changes in altitude.
The route passes through all of Gorgany, heading towards Romania. For this reason, anyone planning to follow the route must first submit a request to the border service and obtain permission before embarking on the journey.
As often happens in the mountains, the weather was unpredictable. Nika walked almost the entire route in the rain—just managing to set up her tent before the gray clouds descended and poured down on the valley. However, there's no such thing as bad weather, according to the main rule of avid travelers. You never know what will await you: fog, strong winds, rain, or scorching sun. The key is to be prepared for anything.
That's why Nika's backpack always includes sunscreen, several layers of clothing, a headlamp, and a rain skirt.
Each tourist route is marked with signs on trees. These routes are also available on online apps for convenience, especially since, due to mass deforestation in the Carpathians, many of the trail markers are disappearing.
Along the way, travelers can immerse themselves in the rich flora and fauna of the area, from the songs of birds to the fascinating, unexplored plants, mountain lakes, and meadows. Nika encourages travelers to document the landscapes they encounter, helping contribute to scientific research. This can be done through phone applications such as:
- Naturalist — This app allows you to identify plants and animals through photos, while also collecting valuable data for scientific research (helping researchers understand the distribution of birds and plants in your area).
- Merlin Bird — Helps identify birds by sound, while also collecting location data for further research.
- A map that highlights the oldest trees in Ukraine, allowing you to explore and learn about these natural wonders.
The East Carpathian Trail passes through several villages, such as Bystrytsia, Osmoloda, and Krasnyk, where travelers can stop to rest. Along the route, shelters and kolybas have been set up for hikers. One of these kolybas is located in the Plisce valley, offering travelers a place to spend the night, relax, or charge their phones, thanks to the solar panels installed there for this purpose.
Additionally, food can be obtained at these stops. Nika, for example, arranges to have food sent from Kyiv to the village of her choice via Nova Poshta. This way, she avoids carrying extra baggage and doesn't have to worry about running out of food during her trek.
Hiker's recommendations in the Carpathian Mountains
- The Krasna Range is located in the Tyachiv and Mizhhirsky districts of Zakarpattia region.
- Kolochava village, which is nestled in the Zakarpattia region. This picturesque village is surrounded by mountains, with a river flowing between them, offering a scenic and peaceful landscape.
- Tyachiv city, Zakarpattia region.
- Khust city, Zakarpattia region.
- Forests in the Rakhiv region: Nika enjoys visiting these forests in the fall, when the views are breathtaking, with vibrant autumn colors enveloping the landscape.
- Abandoned Soviet air defense base — "Pamir," Mount Tomnatyk, Chernivtsi region: This is where Nika completed the East Carpathian tourist route. The area features preserved domes and abandoned radar stations. Once a small military town, it still has remnants of its full infrastructure, offering a glimpse into its Soviet-era past.
Unfortunately, there is a problem with jeeping in the area, which has caused the road to become boggy and nearly dilapidated. A similar abandoned station can be found in the village of Bereznyky, Zakarpattia region, but it is in a much worse condition, almost in ruins.
Overnight stay in caves
Nika's journey into the world of exploration began with a spontaneous and somewhat "illegal" visit to the Parisian catacombs. This experience sparked a deeper desire to explore the underground world, particularly within Ukraine. So far, she has visited remarkable caves such as the Optymistychna and Mlynky caves in the Ternopil region, Atlantis in the Khmelnytskyi region, and many others, each offering its own unique underground wonders.
With no prior experience in exploring caves, Nika turned to professional cavers—specialists who study the Earth and caves—seeking to join them as part of a tourist group. Her first cave experience was in Atlantis.
"I went down and realized that this was a completely different world. I had no idea that such a thing existed," she recalls with fascination.
After meeting local scientists, Nika began traveling with them more often, exploring new cave sites, bringing groups of people along, and, when possible, contributing to engineering work or expeditions. Anyone interested can join the cavers as a volunteer, as extra hands are always welcome. However, it's important that volunteers do not suffer from claustrophobia or chronic health conditions.
"What I like most is the silence, sleeping in caves. No one bothers you. This kind of experience always sparks new ideas," Nika explains.
Overnight stay in the Optymistychna cave. Photo from the heroine's personal archive
During expeditions, scientists create maps, search for new areas, and explore corridors. Speleologists always lead the way, with beginners following behind. Nika explains:
"Some parts of the corridors are dug by speleologists to reach new areas. It's all done manually, without any equipment. The number of experienced guides is decreasing every year, and there are fewer people left to go on expeditions. Some go to the front, while others can no longer participate due to health issues. Therefore, the future of Ukrainian speleology depends on the youth and the popularization of cave exploration."
During one expedition to the Mlynky cave, the group was joined by mountaineers from Switzerland who had been working as war journalists in Ukraine. The researchers chose the most extreme route—slippery caves where carelessness could lead to a fall. Despite the challenges, the group was prepared, and for the experienced foreigners, it became an adventure that revealed Ukraine from an entirely new perspective.
Ukrainian caves remain vast and largely unexplored. For instance, not all areas of the Optimistichna cave are accessible yet, as speleologists continue to venture deeper. The hidden secrets within its distant corridors are still a mystery, awaiting further discovery.
The Carpathian Arch
Bohdan Oslavskyi's travels along the Carpathian Arch, a journey of about 2,200 km crossing Romania, Ukraine, Slovakia, and Poland, were chronicled in his book of the same name. He completed this remarkable journey during the summer and fall of 2021. This was the first time a Ukrainian had fully traversed the Carpathian Arch, marking a significant achievement in the exploration of this region.
The Carpathian Arch route forms an arc that crosses four countries.
On the map that features popular global routes (where you can also add your own achievements), the Carpathian Arch is marked. However, few have completed it in its entirety. There are several reasons for this, including low popularity, closed borders, and, notably, the presence of shepherd dogs.
"No Ukrainian woman has completed it in its entirety yet. There are solo female hikers, mostly from Poland or Slovakia, but the statistics show that many couldn't finish due to attacks by shepherd dogs. Even Ukrainian Bohdan himself mentioned how difficult it was—he was attacked by mountain dogs 3 or 4 times," Nika explains.
Nika herself has encountered shepherd dogs during her travels, and the experience was far from pleasant. One such encounter happened while hiking the Lycian Way in Turkey, a route that passes through mountainous areas where goats graze, protected by fierce dogs.
"In Turkey, it reached the point of panic attacks and hysteria," Nika recalls. "On the 15th day, I came to a popular spot, and there was a serpentine trail. Goats were everywhere. A dog would peek out, start barking, then two dogs. I understood why they reacted that way to strangers. But when there were six of them, and you don't know how they'll behave if you use a shocker, you start to get stressed. I cried a little. And I walked like that for about 20 km."
Despite the challenges, Nika continued on the trails already laid by tourists, though they proved to be less than ideal. Some areas were treacherous, there were sections where goats roamed freely, and much of the route led through dry, unstable land that could easily lead to a fall.
"There was a situation when I was walking to Kabak Beach near Fethiye. On the map, the road is marked with dots, meaning there's a steep, dangerous section. There's no stick or rock to hold onto—just dry, dusty ground. You walk sideways and pray," she shares.
But none of these obstacles stopped Nika from pursuing her dream. Her next goal is to become the first Ukrainian woman to cross the entire Carpathian Arch.
"There will always be people who ask why you're doing this. But many people test themselves in their own ways. For some, it's meditation; for others, it's research or overcoming fears. The world exists for that," she says.
Nika on the route to the Kizi-Ulogi tract. Photo from the heroine's personal archive
"It all starts with people"
Lake Nesamovyte, one of the highest lakes in the Carpathians, is of glacial origin. As a result, its water remains crystal clear and icy to the touch throughout the year. The lake's surface acts like a mirror, reflecting the sky above—sometimes white through the fog, blue on clear days, and coal-black at night.
The water in Lake Nesamovyte has a unique ecosystem, meaning that any external interference could lead to the lake becoming swampy and its delicate balance being destroyed.
However, this does not deter tourists who flock to the lake. They wash their feet, swim, clean their socks, and even wash dishes in the water. Despite the signs warning against these activities, they often go ignored. Campers near the lake even cut down mountain pine trees to light fires.
If you venture off the main path, away from the picturesque landscapes, you are met with a much less magical sight—a "minefield" of napkins and toilet paper scattered across the area. This unsightly scene is mixed with broken glass and household garbage left behind by inconsiderate visitors.
A plot in the forest on the descent from the Chornohirskyi Ridge towards Zarosliak. Photo from the heroine's personal archive
"It all starts with people. Some leave garbage behind, while others fight to clean it up—and it's an endless cycle. If you're going to the mountains and have the chance to not only take away your own trash but also pick up something along the way, please do so," says Nika.
To support this effort, volunteers developed the EcoHike app, which allows users to mark locations with garbage accumulations so others can find and clean them.
"When you speak to people about protecting nature, they sometimes react as if you've intruded into their personal space. But Ukraine is our home, and we all need to invest in preserving it," Nika emphasizes.
Kakhovka Reservoir: life of villagers living without water
